Thanks to Kipling, Mandalay remains the most evocative destination in Burma. It’s the cultural capital and is perhaps where you discover the most visible signs of the optimism that has become such an important part of the country’s character. On the surface it’s a mixed bag, but get past the modern sprawl and you’ll find a rich seam of Bamar culture, seen at the countless monasteries, Shwenandow Pagoda, craft shops, street food and teahouses.
Take a Train, Car or Boat and Explore
The other advantage of visiting Mandalay is that rather than fly on to your next destination you can explore central Myanmar by train, car or boat. Perhaps take the train up into the hills to hike around the Colonial Summer Capital of Pyin Oo Lwin, tour by car to the pagoda strewn plains of Bagan, or relax on a luxury cruise that follows the curves of the Irrawaddy River north and south.
Cultural Capital
When compared to the many other ancient capitals scattered across Myanmar, Mandalay is a relatively new city, built in 1857 by King Mindon when he was trying to re-establish Burmese prestige after defeat in the Second Anglo-Burmese War. 
Constructed on a grand scale to reflect the King’s ambition, the walled citadel surrounded by a moat in the middle of the city was designed to impose his will and display his power. Bombed in the Second World War it has now been reconstructed, but if you want to get a feel for its originality head to the relocated Shwenandaw Kyaung, the only surviving wooden structure from the complex. Considered one of the country’s most beautiful monasteries, it features a unique gilded interior that’s adorned with beautifully intricate carvings woodcarvings.
Across town the Mahamuni Buddha Temple is one of the most important pilgrimage sites as it houses the Mahamuni Buddha image, the most highly revered Buddha image in the country. Standing almost 4 metres high and weighing 6.5 tons, the image was captured during the invasion of the Arakan Kingdom and the pagoda built to house it in 1785. Legend has it that the Buddha visited the Kingdom consecrating and enlivening the image.
To pay respect male devotees apply gold leaf to the image and as a result it’s covered with a thick layer of about 15cms that has distorted the shape. The one part that’s still clear is the beaming face, and if you’re an early bird, every morning at around 4am the Buddha image ritual is performed. Witnessed by a great number of Buddhist devotees, the men up front, the women behind a rope, a senior monk assisted by helpers washes the face of the image and brushes the teeth. The ritual is performed in great detail.
In the early evening Mandalay Hill is a popular destination as you can watch the sun set and admire the stunning 360 degree views of the city, Irrawaddy River and distant hills. Mandalay Hill is a holy site and is said to have been climbed by the Buddha, who prophesied that a great city would be built here, where his teachings would flourish.